For the record, I never planned on going to Slovenia. Frankly I barely knew Slovenia existed before this trip. My knowledge of Slovenia upon my decision to go there?
"Well, I hear it's pretty."
Which given my laissez-faire form of traveling is reason enough for me these days.
So after eight hours on a train, hungover and exhausted from too much fun in Budapest, I arrived in Lubljana after nightfall.
My first impression was, "for a capital city these guys certainly don't have a whole lot in the way of streetlights..."
But this didn't come off as creepy, as Lubljana has a decidedly small-town feel. So I arrived at the hostel, a mere ten minute walk from the train station, and put myself to bed in my six bed dorm which, to my delight, was more of an apartment complete with private bathroom and kitchen.
The next morning I got up and went wandering in the direction of the tourist office to get a map (the hostel was out), where I discovered the famous Dragon Bridge.
After crossing the bridge and taking a right I followed my nose to the market; fresh peaches in the summer sun must be what heaven smells like. I knew right away that I would be buying groceries here and putting that kitchen to good use.
But, all that for after lunch, because I was hungry.
So after a quick stop at the tourist office I walked aimlessly down a street that looked promising for food. I stopped immediately when I saw it, because sometimes you just have to treat yourself to a fancy lunch in a place with your name (or the local equivalent) on the door.
"Julija" turned out to be delicious. Enter tuna tartar followed by grilled calamari with that delightful side dish I had nearly forgotten since leaving the Balkans, potatoes lazily mashed with fresh greens and garlic.
This is my happy place.
After stuffing myself I made my way back to the market where I went veggie crazy, buying broccoli romanesco, cauliflower, fresh arugula, lemons, eggs, and, of course, those peaches you could smell from two blocks away.
I spent the greater part of my afternoon sitting at a cafe sipping on a beer people watching, then hit the grocery store for fresh pasta, siracha (best find ever - have hot sauce, will travel), and feta cheese, before heading back to make myself a veggie-tastic dinner that looked like a hot mess but satisfied every green craving.
My second day in Lubljana was, unsurprisingly, mellow, punctuated by a cable car ride up to the castle and more people watching. I also made a stop at the local H&M for a new pair of shorts and a sweater to replace the one I lost in Budapest. As a side note I lose at least one piece of clothing for every two weeks I travel, on average.
View from the top.
Yeah, it was pretty, but I think I'm getting a bit snobbish about views these days.
New (non prescription and therefore cheap) shades, which I usually wear only when on the wrong end of a rowdy night out, because the sun hurts.
Lunch of pan fried white fish with fresh spinach and goat cheese.
View from my lunch table.
The three bridges.
The market, mostly cleared out after a busy morning.
That evening I met some new room mates, a group of three recent graduates traveling together after finishing a semester abroad. Who, it just so happens, were also venturing to Bled the next morning, so we agreed to go together because four heads are better than one when figuring out buses in foreign countries.
So the next morning I made myself two tuna and hard boiled egg sandwiches and Tannet, Jimmy, Lisette, and I hiked our packs to the bus station, where we caught a bus to lake Bled. In another lucky twist of fate our respective hostels turned out to share owners and a reception, so we got ourselves checked in and met up to go swimming in the lake to beat the heat.
Stopping on the way for ice cream, of course.
The happiest people ever. Photo cred: Lisette.
We spent the afternoon swimming and lounging in the patchy grass by the lake, then walked around the entire lake shore on the way back to the hostel. Where after a run to the supermarket we utilized the hostel BBQ and made loads of ćevapčići- the Balkan equivalent of sausage - and salad. We went out with the pub crawl that evening, where in the end I managed to get myself lost (quite a feat in a place that size) but arrived safe and sound, eventually, and crashed.
Swim spot number one, and my personal favorite.
Yep, our hostel wristbands said "sleep with me."
Swim spot number two - rocky and the water wasn't nearly as clean.
People actually swim all the way out to the island. Crazy fools.
"Cheeky selfie" time. I learned quickly that "cheeky" amongst this group was an all inclusive descriptor used effortlessly and constantly. Photo cred: Jimmy.
The next morning I woke up with severe foot pain and a resulting limp, the result of a misstep the afternoon before. To this day I have no idea what exactly I did to it but it hurt for weeks, which is very inconvenient when backpacking and thus carrying everything you own from place to place. So I skipped out of the gorge tour with my new amigos and spent my morning limping in agony to the pharmacy for the strongest painkillers they would give me without a prescrition. That afternoon we met up for more swimming and ice cream, and rented a boat in the evening to paddle out to the island for more ice cream (the best lemon ice cream in the world) and a comedy of errors in learning how to row and park a good-sized wooden rowboat. 10 minutes to the island, my ass.
Our pilot, Jimmy.
Getting there.
About 15 minutes on the island to look around before having to row back.
Happy sailors.
Love in sLOVEnia.
We had one final BBQ with more ćevapčići and salad, and mixed it up with some pork fillets also. As it turns out anything cooked over open fire always tastes great. I contributed a vinaigrette for the salad, which received unnecessarily lavish praise.
I said my goodbyes to my new friends that evening, as they had an early bus out of there the following morning. By this time I had already extended my stay in Bled, going from three nights to five with a quick visit to reception.
My third day in Bled was July 4, which, if you know the Swans, is one of few holidays we celebrate. So of course I was missing home but I figured I'd make the best of things. So after a day of reading by the lake and swimming in the clean cool water, I made myself a veritable feast of, you guessed it, ćevapčići, this time with Greek salad and potato salad. I also treated myself to a bottle of local sparkling wine, which turned out to be red and remarkably tasty.
I even got fancy with the potato salad and added some crispy proscuitto.
Not a bad way to ring in the 4th, even if I wasn't at home. I topped it off with a trip out to the local bars, where after a few drinks I went into typical tipsy Swan mode and recruited several swimming companions for a skinny dip in the lake. There is nothing like a night swim in the crystal clear waters of lake Bled to ring in one of my favorite American holidays. And aside from slipping on the slick dock - nearly breaking a finger, and giving myself a nice sized bruise on the ass - no harm done. I even drank water instead of beer at the last bar. So responsible.
The following morning I deemed my foot well enough to do some walking, so I went for the gorge tour, which was absolutely stunning!
The water was ice cold, and so clean you could literally drink right out of the stream, which I did.
And yes, it is that color.
Cairns.
At the end of the walk was the waterfall, where I decided I was hot enough to jump in, despite the fact that it was so cold your feet were numbed instantly. It literally took my breath away and I scrambled back out as quickly as I could, but boy did I feel refreshed.
OMG I just swam in ice water.
After the gorge our driver took us on a relatively quick but brutal uphill hike to a viewpoint over the lake, where we indulged in silly photos.
Tell me this place isn't absolutely amazing.
That afternoon I went swimming with an Aussie girl from the hostel, then ate my leftovers and had a quiet night in.
My final day in Bled was another swim day, punctuated by ice cream and reading. It was lovely, and I was sad to say goodbye. But having sustained no fewer than 50 mosquito bites it was time to move onward, and so the next morning I bussed it back to Lubljana to catch a bus to Zagreb, Croatia, in my Southward journey through the Balkans.
My duck amigos at the lake.
I found something in Slovenia that despite my epic travels is still elusive and specific to only certain special places. That sense of pure peace, of feeling light and joyful, where your problems simply melt away into the background. I left knowing this is somewhere I want to come back to, someday.
That's all for now, keep on exploring fellow explorers!
~Swan
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